14 hp briggs and stratton carburetor diagram

791858 Carburetor for Briggs & Stratton 792358 791858 794572 799727 698620 793224 697190 697141 14hp 15hp 16hp 17hp 17.5 HP 18hp Craftsman Lawn Tractor Mower with Air Fuel Filter

Compatibility:

Replaces for Briggs & Stratton 799727 Supersedes part number 496796 - 499153 - 695412 91886 - 690194 - 698620

Fits for Birggs & Stratton 697141, 697190, 698445, 791888, 793224, 792358, 791858,791888, 699937, 790418, 699109, 792171

For Briggs & Stratton 14.5 HP I/C engine for Craftsman 15.5 HP for Briggs & Straton mower

Fits Follow for Briggs & Stratton Models: 31A507 31A607 31A677 31A707 31A777 31B707 31B775 31A507, 31A607, 31A707, 31A777, 31B707, 31B775, 31C707, 31C777, 31D707, 31D777, 31E577, 31E607, 31E677, 31E707, 31E777, 31F707, 31F777, 31G707, 31G777, 31H707, 31H777, 31L777, 31M777, 31M877, 31N707, 31P707, 31P777, 31P877, 31Q777

Also Fits for Craftsman LT1000 lawn mower w/ for Briggs & Stratton Intek Motor 31A707,31A777,31B775,31C707 Before Code Date - 08051406

Hi, I have been reading and learning from this forum since I began trying to bring my old riding mower back to life a few weeks ago. I have a 1998 MTD Yardman with a 14 HP Briggs & Stratton engine.The engine model number is 287707- 1224-E1.

The mower had been sitting for about 2 1/2 years since I ran the gas out of it at the end of the fall cleanup. It had been used in a very high dust area and I remember it had gotten very hard to start.

When I decided to get it running again I remembered how poorly it would turn over. It would turn over once strongly, but then not turn over again; or turn very slowly. After reading on this forum I realized the valves needed to be adjusted because the stater was cranking well with no spark plug in the cylinder. I did get the engine to start and run well with the choke left on for about 1 minute before it died.

After doing the valve adjustment the engine still only revolved one time. When I took out the spark plug, the cylinder was full of gas. I drained the gas, drained and changed the oil for the second time & decided it was time to clean the carburetor.

I went for the quick & lazy method on the first try. I clamped off the fuel line, took off the solenoid shut off & drained the gas from the bowl. After removing the bowl I saw it was the dirtiest bowl I have ever seen. I cleaned the bowl with degreaser and steel wool, but did not take the carb off. I sprayed carb cleaner at high pressure all around and through every orifice I could; then followed that with air from the compressor.

After that I put it back together and hooked up the gas line. Without even starting the engine I could see gas moisture appearing on the black plastic parts on the top of the carb. I dried it and blew it off with compressed air, but it returned almost instantly. I realized the carb needed much more work and would need to come off the engine. I removed the carb (still attached to the intake manifold) from the engine & the air cleaner assembly. There was a lot of gas in the intake area of the cylinder head. I used rolled up paper towels to dry up the gas from the cylinder head. I checked the new oil and no gas has yet leaked into the crankcase, the intake valve happens to be closed.

I have re-cleaned the carb and the needle valve looks pretty good for it's age. Time and budget-wise I would like to at least see if I can get it to run before I get a whole carburetor rebuild kit. But I do not want to take any avoidable chance of ruining the new oil again by flooding the crankcase with gas. I will be installing a shut-off valve in the gas line ASAP.

The most specific question I want to ask today is this: Can I test the seating of the needle valve to see if the carb is filling with gas before actually putting the intake manifold with attached carb back onto the engine? If I set, or hold, the carb & manifold level and hook up the gas line will I be able to tell if it is still filling & flooding the bowl, carb & intake manifold?

Any help to see if the needle valve is now shutting off the flow to prevent everything from flooding is appreciated. I just don't want to get it all back on the engine and have fuel filling the cylinder and ruining my new oil all over again. Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

Performing regular carburetor maintenance is a great way to save yourself money, headaches, and hassle down the road.

Most carburetor problems are caused by a variety of blockages from things like dirt, varnish, and gasoline deposits. It's easy for the main fuel jet to become blocked, but luckily it's a pretty easy fix. Regular carburetor maintenance will help you avoid problems in the future.

You can clean the main fuel jet (located in your carburetor's fuel bowl nut) with carburetor cleaner and compressed air to blow out loosened debris. Carburetor cleaner dissolves deposits in your carburetor and choke, and consequently can reduce your need for maintenance, repair, and downtime, while improve starting for all 2-cycle and 4-cycle engines.