2003 jeep liberty head gasket replacement

Hello all. I am a first timer jeep owner.
Just bought a 2002 Liberty with a blown head gasket and figured I would do I write up on how to replace a blown head gasket.

I will be replacing both sides just to be safe.

*This post will be edited on a continuous basis as I make progress on it*
*Pics will be added and tools will be updated as I need them*

Parts to be replaced
Left and right head gasket
Water pump
Water pump gasket
Coolant sending unit
Accessory belt
Exhaust manifold studs
Valve seats (left and right head)

Tools required:

5/16" 1/4" socket
8mm deep well socket
10mm deep well socket
10mm impact socket
10mm 1/4" socket
15mm impact socket (from my understanding, impact sockets have tighter clearances and are less prone to rounding bolts)
13mm socket
1/4" ratchet
3/8" ratchet
3/8" impact gun
3/8" extension
3/8" swivel
1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" extensions
7/16" nut driver
Pliers
1/2" Breaker bar
1/2" Torque Wrench
Set of adapters
Channel locks

Manual and supplemental instructions:
AllData
Youtube
This forum

Step one

Disconnect negative battery terminal.

Removal of air intake system
Remove air hose from filter housing to air box on top of engine
Disconnect the hoses from each side of air box using 7/16" nut driver.
Remove air box from throttle body by loosening another hose clamp on the firewall side of the air box.
Remove air filter box by pulling and wiggling. The air filter box is held in place by 3 pins.

Removal of accessory belt, alternator, and AC compressor:
Using a 15mm impact socket and a ratchet, rotate the belt tensioner up and remove the accessory bolt.

Alternator removal:
Held by two 15mm bolts and one 13mm belt.
Remove 15mm bolts from front of engine.
Remove the 13mm bolt on the driver side of alternator. (On top of engine)

AC Compressor Removal
WARNING: DO NOT DISCONNECT AC HOSES OR COMPONENTS WITH OUT THE SYSTEM BEING EVACUATED OF THE COOLANT.
Same as alternator.
Unbolt and set compressor with lines attached on top of the air filter housing.

Removal of Spark Plug Coil Packs:

Using a pair of pliers, carefully compress spring on the hose running from the coolant reservoir to the radiator.
Remove hose from reservoir and place to the side.

The coils are held in place by one 10mm nut.

Disconnect wire from coil pack.
Unscrew nut and place in a labeled zip lock bag.
Coil pack should pop right off.

(Not sure if coil pack location matters, so just as a precaution, I am marking which one came from which cylinder).

Time Checkpoint: 55 minutes

Driver Side Exhaust Manifold Removal

SEE POST 6

Remove heat shield which is held on by 4 10mm nuts.

Bottom nut closest to the firewall requires a small 1/4" drive and 10mm deep well socket.

Passenger Side Exhaust Manifold Removal

SEE POST 6

Same as driver side. Can reach bottom 10 mm nut for heat shield from underneath car if necessary.

I highly recommend a 10mm impact socket to break the nuts free. I rounded one off by not doing so but was able to beat a 3/8" impact socket on.

Separate exhaust pipe at catalytic converter flange

This is simple. Take a small sawzall and cut the 4 bolts (2 each flange). Be aware of the tension spring flying off

Intake Manifold Removal

7 10mm studs and one 10mm nut.

Remove 10mm bolt holding the check engine oil tube to exhaust manifold.

Remove 4 5/6" nuts from the fuel rail.

Wiggle that manifold out of there.

Time Checkpoint: 3 hours 15 minutes

Fuel Rail Removal

Disconnect fuel rail from fuel line on the driver side of the engine.

Undo security clips on injector electrical connectors.

Remove electrical connectors.

Using a flat blade screw driver, rotate and pull the clips that secure the injectors to the fuel rail.

Gently wiggle the fuel rail off of the injectors.
Valve cover removal

Remove wire harness over valve cover

Back out the 10 10mm screws holding it on.

Gently pry valve cover off. DO NOT PRY ON THE VALVE COVER GASKET.

Crankshaft damper (Harmonic Balancer removal)

Need to rent a harmonic balancer puller from autozone or advance auto, etc.

To remove the crankshaft bolt, I used an impact wrench followed by a breaker bar.

Need to stick a 1" wrench in the harmonic balancer to keep it from rotating.

Oil Filler Removal

Held on by 3 8mm bolts and 1 8mm stud.

Power Steering Pump

Held on by 3 13mm bolts. (13mm socket with extension to go through the holes in the pulleys)

Timing Chain Cover Removal

Held on by 14 bolts and one stud.

Need to remove the serpentine belt tensioner (2 bolts) and power steering pump (3 bolts).

If I recall correctly, the timing chain cover bolts are 15mm.

Remove in order shown

Cylinder Head Removal

The first step in this is to remove the timing chain off of the sprocket.
Easiest way that *I* found to do it is to remove the chain guide, tensioner, and tensioner arm and that gave me enough play on the passenger side head.

On the driver side, I had to remove the camshaft sprocket to get enough slack.

Caution: It is imperative that the crankshaft timing mark is aligned with the TDC mark on the timing chain cover and that both V6 marks are at the 12 o'clock positions. Mark the chains in several spots

Once you get the sprocket and chain out of your way, the head is held on by 8 15mm bolts and 4 10mm bolts.

Cylinder Head Torque Sequence

For install

Tighten 1-8 to 20 ft lbs.

Then check in the same sequence to make sure the torque is correct.

Tighten 9-12 to 10 ft lbs.

Turn 1-8 90 degrees.

Turn 1-8 90 degrees for a second time, then torque 9-12 to 20 ft lbs.

Torque Sequencing and Specs
Intake manifold: 105 in pounds or 12 Nm. Remove in reverse order shown. Tighten in order shown.

Timing Chain Cover: Tighten to 40 ft lbs

Oil Filler: 9 ft lbs
Power steering pump bolts: 35 ft lbs
Valve cover: 105 in pounds. (Basically 8.8 ft lbs so i did 9 ft lbs)